How to Assemble a Gaming PC

 Breaking down the gaming PC assembly process into manageable steps makes it more stress-free. Even if you're a beginner, don't worry: Previous assembly experience is not mandatory.

Assembling a gaming PC from scratch is the only sure way for the system to meet all of your personal preferences. When you determine everything that goes into your PC from the power supply, you know you'll be able to play the game you want, at the frame rate you want. Plus, self-built PCs still open up opportunities for upgrade — as technology changes, as gaming tastes and needs change, or within your budget.

While assembling a PC can seem daunting, you may find it easier than you think, especially when broken down into manageable steps. That's why we've put together a complete step-by-step guide to building your first gaming PC — complete with tips and tricks from our veteran developers.

PREPARATION 1: PC Assembly Tool

The first thing you need to do is gather the tools needed to complete the assembly. Preparing the following materials in advance is very useful to ensure that the assembly process runs smoothly.

Your workspace will need a large surface to work on, such as a desk. To prevent accidental electrostatic discharge (which can damage sensitive components), make sure you are standing on a surface without a carpet.

Screwdriver. You will need a Philips #2 screwdriver for everything. If you are installing an M.2 device, you will need a Philips #0 screwdriver.

PREPARATION 2: Game PC Case

Before you start selecting components, you should consider the case — or, at least, the size of the case.

The main thing to keep in mind when choosing a case is what you are going to install on the computer. The PC's final location will determine how much you can (or can't) do, and will also help determine whether the various features of the premium case are worth buying. You may not want to buy a tempered glass side panel, for example if the computer will be hidden under a desk.

Cases are usually available in three sizes: Large, medium, and mini. This is a very general category (case sizes are not standardized by manufacturers), based on motherboard size.

PREPARATION 3: PC Game Components

Now it's time to put your components together. You can work through this step however you like, you can do thorough research on each component you have and create a custom assembly from scratch, or you can find ready-made assemblies on the internet and customize them to fit your budget and specific needs.

We strongly recommend planning a budget before starting to select components (when buying components it can be easy to get out of hand). Remember, you can always upgrade individual components at a later date.

Pro tip: List assemblies before purchasing — all components must be compatible with the rest.

Pro tip: If you built this PC because you want to play a certain game, see the recommended system requirements for that game, and plan accordingly.

In addition to the case, here are the components you'll need to assemble a gaming PC:

:Central processing unit (CPU)

:Motherboards

:Memory (RAM)

:Graphics Processing Unit (GPU)

:Storage

:Power supply unit (PSU)

:Cooling System

:Game peripherals

:Operating system (OS)

STEP 1: INSTALLING CPU

Components/equipment: Motherboard, CPU

Remove the motherboard from its anti-static packaging and place it on your work surface. Locate the CPU socket, which is wrapped in a protective plastic cover. On one of the plastic caps, or more commonly, in the socket itself, you will see a small arrow — note the location of the arrow.

Next to the CPU socket, you'll see a small metal lever. Press down on the lever and gently pull it sideways (away from the socket) to open the socket tray.

Open the CPU and remove it from its packaging. Please be very careful when handling the CPU — the CPU and the CPU socket are very susceptible to physical damage. Hold the CPU by the edges — never touch the pins on the bottom of the chip, as fingers can cause grease or dust to stick to it, and try not to touch the top of the chip.

In one corner of the CPU, you will see an arrow. Align this arrow with the arrow on the socket, and carefully place the CPU into the socket. Once the CPU has been slowly seated, you can lower the retention lever and push it back into place. It may take a little effort to lower the lever, but not when placing the CPU!

STEP 2: (OPTIONAL) INSTALLING M.2 . SSD

Parts/tools: Motherboard, M.2 SSD, Phillips #0 screwdriver, motherboard user manual

If you want to install an M.2 SSD, now is a good time to do so. First, find the M.2 slot on the motherboard. This is a small horizontal slot with a small screw across from it. If you can't find it, if you find multiple M.2 slots, or plan to install more than one M.2 SSD, see the user manual that came with the motherboard.

Remove the small screw using a Philips #0 screwdriver. Do not remove the screws.

Gently slide the M.2 SSD into the slot. When fully installed, the SSD will form an angle of about 35 degrees from the motherboard. Press down on the SSD and replace the small screw to secure it.

STEP 3: INSTALLING CPU COOLING

Components/tools: Motherboard with CPU installed, CPU cooler, thermal paste, CPU cooler user manual

There are different types of CPU coolers. For proper installation instructions, we recommend that you read the user manual that came with the CPU cooler.

Some coolers require mounting brackets. Motherboards may have brackets pre-installed; You may need to remove this bracket if your cooler does not require it, or replace the bracket if your cooler uses a different bracket. Do this before inserting the motherboard into the case.

Some coolers come with thermal paste pre-attached to a conductive material (which is present in the CPU) and some don't. If your cooler does not have thermal paste pre-installed, you will need to install it manually before installing the cooler. To apply thermal paste, squeeze a small dot (no bigger than a grain of rice) into the center of the CPU. Then, place the cooler on the CPU — the pressure will spread the thermal paste evenly.

STEP 4: INSTALL MEMORY (RAM)

Components/tools: Motherboard, RAM, motherboard user manual

Determine how many RAM slots are on the motherboard (there should be two or four). If you're going to fill all the RAM slots, just snap the RAM into place. If you do not fill all the RAM slots, consult the user manual to find the correct configuration and fill the RAM slots accordingly.

STEP 5: (OPTIONAL) DO NOT RUN TEST OPERATION OUTSIDE THE CASE

Components/tools: Motherboard with CPU and CPU cooler installed, RAM, GPU, PSU, screwdriver, motherboard user manual, PC monitor (attached to GPU)

Now that you've installed the CPU and CPU cooler, you may want to do a quick test operation on the components just to make sure everything is working. This test is much more difficult to perform (and perform troubleshooting) once everything is installed in the chassis. To do this, plug in the GPU and plug everything into a power supply (if you don't know how to install a GPU, see the section below). Make sure the power supply is connected to the motherboard (8 pin and 24 pin CPU) and GPU, then plug in and turn on the CPU.

Some of the more advanced motherboards have a power button, but many don't. If you don't see the power button, look for the power switch pins — tiny pairs of plug ends sticking out of colorful nodules. The power switch pins may be labeled (for example, "PWR_ON"). To turn on the motherboard, use a screwdriver to tap both switch pins at once.

You should now be able to see if the component is dead or not working. If the motherboard light flashes or beeps, this may be a signal from the motherboard. Some motherboards have a post code screen (two digits) that helps you identify what the problem is. To find out what the motherboard is trying to convey, see your user manual. If your motherboard doesn't have a post code screen, connect the display to the GPU and see if the system “posts” or starts up and displays the motherboard logo.

After completing the test operation, turn off the power supply and wait for the LED on the motherboard to turn off to ensure that there is no remaining power in the system. Then, disconnect the GPU and unplug all power cables before proceeding to the next step.

STEP 6: INSTALLING POWER SUPPLY

Parts/tools: PSU, case, PSU cable, Philips #2 . screwdriver

Disassemble the PSU (or unplug it from components if you choose to perform a test run) and remove the cables (if you can).

Take a look at your case and find out where the PSU should be installed (perhaps on the bottom, near the back) and how the PSU can be oriented. Generally, you'll want to orient the PSU so that the fans face up (through the vent). If your case has bottom vents, you can mount the PSU upside down, as long as the bottom vents receive adequate airflow once the PC is finished.

If your case doesn't have a vent, install the PSU so the fan is facing up (into the case) and make sure there's enough free space.

Attach the PSU to the case using the four screws that came with the PSU.

If you are using a non-modular or semi-modular power supply, now is the time to run the attached cables through the case to their final location (take advantage of the cable management feature if your case has one).

STEP 7: INSTALL THE MOTHERBOARD

Components/tools: Case, motherboard, I/O shield (if not attached to motherboard), Philips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual

If your motherboard comes with an unmounted I/O shield — a square sheet of metal with a cutout on the motherboard ports — you'll first need to snap it into place on the back of the case (make sure it's oriented correctly). I/O shields usually have sharp edges, so be careful with your fingers.

Once the I/O shield is in place, you can install the motherboard. Double check to make sure your cables are threaded through the correct places, then place the motherboard (align with the I/O shield first). Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, install the first screw — the center screw — to secure the motherboard in place. Make sure you don't drag the motherboard across the standoff attached to the chassis.

The number of screws you need to attach the motherboard will vary based on the board, but a full-sized ATX motherboard usually requires 9 screws. Fill all available screw holes.

Connect the power supply to the motherboard. There are two main connections — an 8 pin CPU connector on the top of the board and a 24 pin connector on the side.

STEP 8: INSTALLING GPU

Components/tools: Motherboard, GPU, Philips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual

Locate the PCIe* x16 slot on your motherboard. This is the longest PCIe slot* and may have a different color than the others. If your motherboard has more than one PCIe* x16 slot, check the user manual to see if one slot should take priority. If any slot works, decide which one you'll use based on the location of the rest of the components — you want the GPU to have some breathing room.

Depending on the case, you may need to remove the I/O cover (the small metal tab that blocks the back panel of the case) to make room for the GPU I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) and make it accessible to the chassis exterior.

Remove the GPU from its anti-static packaging and carefully align it with both the rear retaining bracket and the slot, then gently push it into the PCIe* x16 slot (you may hear a click). The PCIe* tab on the motherboard may move to the locked position if you have to re-install the GPU.

Once the GPU is properly seated, secure it to the back of the case using a screw or two. If your GPU requires an additional power connector, plug it into a power supply.

STEP 9: INSTALLING STORAGE

Parts/tools: Motherboard, SDD, Philips #2 screwdriver, screws, case/chassis user manual

First, check your case. Each case is slightly different in terms of the drive bay.

You should be able to find piles of different sizes in your case. The drive bay may have a small plastic switch, it may be toolless, or it may look like a metal bracket.

Generally, storage is available in two sizes, 2.5 inches (HDD and SSD) and 3.5 inches (HDD). Most 3.5-inch bays can accept 2.5-inch drives, but not the other way around (some 3.5-inch bays will have trays that aren't designed for 2.5-inch drives, but will still fit 2.5-inch bays). ). You may also notice the larger drive bays in your case — these are larger drives, such as optical drives and are usually located at the front of the case, near the top.

If you have a tool-less drive bay, each bay will have its own plastic lever or switch. Open or unlock the lever or switch, and you should be able to pull out the tray. Place your drive in the tray — some 3.5-inch trays will be designed to accept 2.5-inch trays. If so, you will need to screw the 2.5-inch drive into the 3.5-inch tray to prevent it from sliding.

Slide the tray back into place. The tray should be seated properly.

If you don't have a tool-less drive bay, you'll see metal brackets (large ones, like sheets), with layers or holes in them. To fit a drive in one of these “bays,” all you need to do is slide the slide between the metal bracket and the side of the case, and screw it into place. Use as many screws as the user guide suggests, but if you don't have enough, most drives will use just two.

Once all of your drives are plugged in, connect them to the motherboard (using the SATA cable, which should have been included with your drive or motherboard) and to the power supply.

STEP 10: INSTALL OPERATING SYSTEM

Components/tools: PC, monitor, mouse, keyboard, OS saved to flash drive

If you haven't already set up an operating system (OS) on a USB flash drive, now is a great time to do so. (See the section above on operating systems in "GETTING STARTED 3: Selecting components" for details.)

Plug in the flash drive containing the OS, as well as the monitor, mouse, and keyboard, and turn on the PC.

The first screen you see will tell you to press a button to enter system setup or BIOS. Press the key to enter the BIOS. (If the screen is flashing too fast for you to see the buttons, refer to your motherboard's user manual.)

First, check to make sure all components are installed and recognized. Find the page in the BIOS that shows your PC's system info (different motherboards have some BIOS settings, but you should be able to find a screen that provides this information) and check to make sure the system recognizes everything you've installed so far.

Next, scroll through the BIOS until you find the Boot page (maybe called “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority”). Change the boot order so that the flash drive is in the first position and the drive you want to install the OS on (if you're using an SSD as your boot drive, you'll want to install the OS here) in the second position.

Restart our computer. Your computer will boot from the USB and the OS installer will appear. Follow the instructions to complete the installation.

THIS HAS NOT BEEN COMPLETED

If you've followed all of our guides, congratulations on finishing your assembly (especially if it's your first time)! However, the work doesn't have to end here.

The best thing about assembling your own gaming PC is that the job is never really done. As hardware loads increase, the capacity of a dedicated PC for customization is virtually limitless, and your equipment can be updated as desired based on your needs and budget.

When you go over the recommended specs for a new game you want to play, keep this possibility in mind. The PC you just built will be the foundation for all future gaming experiences, and fine-tuning components is part of the joy of owning a PC.

Once you know how to build a gaming PC, consider tuning your machine into a fully armed battle post. You can also learn how to get the most out of your build through advanced techniques like CPU overclocking.